We have no grass to cut, no flower beds to edge, no vegetable garden to weed. Thus it is July and we took a trip! I have been lavending (pining in the right species!) to see the lavender in bloom in Provence for more years than I have been raising lavender! And this is the first time we are here to catch the blooming season --and we timed it perfectly for the area of the Drome, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, and Vaucluse (it is all part of our idea of Provence...) to see the fields in their full glory. And we got to see a few other minor things like the Gorges of Verdon which are second in depth only to the Grand Canyon. We also got to see the sun --every day!
Several years ago while visiting our friends Jacqueline and Philippe, they brought us to Jacqueline's dad's country house in Crest (in the departement of the Drome), a fabulous old country home with gardens, views, and a magnificent field that was planted with sunflowers across the road (sometimes it is bit less picturesque when the farmer plants garlic rather than sunflowers!). There are some exquisite hilltop towns in the area, and Le-Poet-Laval was one of our absolute favorites (there is no poet --the translation has to do with a hill top of the valley). There is a charming hotel in the old town with an outside terrace for dining... winding little streets too small for cars, views of the mountains... I had been Droming to return --we spent the 4th of July there!
Mid-morning we left for Provence and drove through mountains and fields --some lavender, some olives, some wheat, and sunflowers. Nyons, which is famous for its olives and oil, was our stop for lunch.
Our destination was Allemagne-en-Provence, un petit village, and a charming chambres de hotes where we spent 4 days in the country (these are "bed and breakfast" type accommodations, and Domaine Bertrandy was also a tables de hotes, which served dinner to the guests). This is a fabulous and relatively less expensive way to travel in France, and the bonus is that you get to meet guests from all over. We had dinner on their patio three nights and enjoyed the company, sharing of travel information, and relaxing outside --and a great meal! (In this area of Provence, there are many camping opportunities, but very few hotels, so these accommodations are well used by tourists --including many French tourists.)
A little botanical history lesson: la lavande is the "true" lavender that grows wild in in Provence --like thyme, marjoram, bay leaf, rosemary-- together these are the classic herbes de provence (sometimes with addition of basil). La lavande grows wild at higher elevations (2000 to 4500 ft.) and is propagated by seeds; the flowers stalks are smaller and the scent is more delicate. The planting of lavender fields at these elevations is a 20th century phenomenon (it was picked in the wild as extra income), and enabled farmers to use this rocky and dry area productively (I do not think that they anticipated the tourist draw that this would create --car loads of Dutch, Germans, Brits, and the occasional Americans taking memory cards full of purple fields and blue skies!). It is used for perfumes --and in the true tradition of terroir, the essential oil of la lavande de Haute-Provence has an AOC designation. It grows on and is cultivated on Mont Ventoux and Montagne de Lure and is wild other places within these elevations. The photos were taken at the rim of Gorges du Verdon.
Lavendin is cultivated at lower elevations and it is the (at least in my gardener's opinion) lavender augustifolia that we often plant in New England. It has long flower stalks and that uniform dome shape that makes such a show of color. Although it is less fragrant, it is more prolific and is used for lavender scented products. And... it is more showy! It is propagated by stem cutting as the seeds are sterile and must be replanted every 5-7 years. (which I discovered with great disappointment when the two magnificent lavendin plants I had on my patio were dead one spring --of course I blamed our erratic New England winters!) The Valensole Plain (just above where we stayed) has the most magnificent fields.....
As the last picture shows, it was windy up at this elevation even on a hot day. Another product produced here is lavender honey and you can imagine how many bees are in these fields --they hum! With the wind and the bees, the fields almost shimmer as they are in constant motion. This picture of me was taken before the bees got the message that it was time to return to the hive. We were walking along the fields and soaking up the perfumed air --a little after 7pm-- and then, as if a bell rang, all of the bees began to leave the fields, and all going in the same direction, made off for their hives. Well, all but one who decided to get tangled in my hair (and this happened before I realized that they were all flying!). I heard him and tried shaking him out and he held on! I then realized that the entire road was full of honey bees --and I did panic! Poor David ran over and could hear him buzzing, but could not see him in my hair --finally he freed himself and joined the cloud.....we did not get stung, nor kill the bee....but what an experience! I now understand "bee-line"!
Next stop --the Gorges du Verdon!
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