David and I returned to Paris on the 28th of March after being back in the States for 9 days. We had planned this trip when we made arrangements to come for the year as it seemed (rightfully so!) easier to pack and make plans with a shorter end date. We also planned this trip around the Easter holidays (but stayed in Paris Palm Sunday so I did not cook for 30 people!).
I am nursing blisters on my hands from raking the yard and flower beds. At one point, I was putting some ghostly potato sculptures into my compost bin, and I felt like living in Paris was a dream. And then I got back to cleaning up the shed and barn because the roofers were coming to replace the roofs (please do not ask the logic of this --my sons will tell you that I always vacuumed before having our house cleaned.) Our house sitter, Peter, is taking wonderful care of our house, cats, and reef tanks --and we are thankful, as this is no small task (even if the carpenter had finished the on-going 5 month project in our laundry room).
But, we are back --and we are glad to be back. And we feel like we came back home. Which presents an interesting question --did we go home or come home? Saturday was a lovely spring day, and Paris again offered its unique palette of experiences that make being here simply wonderful.
We visited our marche at Place du Marche-Saint-Honore, and our shopkeepers were happy to see us. (I am sitting in front a vase of the most fragrant hyacinths, and they have perfumed the entire apartment!) We broke our fast from baguettes first thing Sunday morning and celebrated being here with a couple of croissants (and that wonderful beurre doux --as if croissants need butter!-- but it is hard to resist!)
The churches in Paris, and there are many, do host concerts and other cultural events. (I had mentioned earlier that we attended an enjoyable concert at the Madeleine.) The neighborhood church, with a nave a mere 32 feet shorter than Notre Dame, is St.Roch (I grew up in the parish of St. Rocco, the Italian name of the same saint who is always accompanied by a dog. My dad grew up in this same Italian parish; perhaps this can explain to my mom why he loved dogs so much --note the "s" -- like 5 at one time! -- or why his sister picks up strays!). They had an exhibit in the Calvary Chapel which is behind the main altar, "100 Lampes de Nicolas Cesbron"--these "lampes" are turned wooden vessels that are pierced in patterns and mounted on simple floor stands of varying heights. Coarse sand was spread over the floor, and these 100 "lampes" were installed so that you could walk among them. I was excited when I saw the poster for the exhibit as I had seen several of these displayed in the gallery which put on the exhibit, Galerie Antonine Catzeflis on Rue St-Roch, a few weeks ago. As the chapel has a high ceiling, the lighting was felt celestial.
Since we had not walked towards the area of the Eiffel Tower and it was a beautiful day, we started walking along the Seine towards Ponte d'Alma on the right bank. While walking, we encountered a three-ring circus. Every city has its con artists and local scams, and the one that is running through Paris this spring is the golden ring. It is simple (although I am not sure what the logic of it is). As you are walking (and "you" is one or two, and not more), the person walking towards you almost reaches you, bends down and "picks up" a "golden ring" from the ground. It is offered to you as if you had lost it, and since it is not yours, the person offers to give it to you. It has a "14k" stamped inside. This is the point where I am lost --if you take it, does the "finder" expect a finder's fee? Is there some other expected transaction that allows them access to something of yours? What does it say about you as a person, taking something that does not belong to you? (I had my first "ring" experience along Rue Rivoli when a young woman approached me, and for a second, I thought it was legitimate that she found someone's ring --until she tried to give it to me!)
On Saturday, this happened to us THREE times within 15 minutes on the same stretch of Avenue de New York. (If it was Avenue de Las Vegas, I could see the connection!)
By the third time, I waved the guy on in disgust before he even reached the ground --his response? "ooh-la-la". Indeed. I did not think fast enough --I should have taken the ring, given a look to David, thrown it in the Seine, and then told the guy, "merci!" Without making ethnic comments, I would guess that these "artists" are probably related to the people we met while waiting to get our exams for our carte de sejour.
We did arrive at Eiffel Tower with all of our money and possessions intact! And we were still laughing! But I was also a bit annoyed --did we look like people who would be so easily taken-- or dishonest? But then, what do those people look like? US! (as in, we elected Le President Bush)!
You do need to go to the Eiffel Tower to appreciate its magnificence. The design of the base of structure and the lace-like --dentelle-- effect of the steel make the experience of walking around the surrounding park, the Champs-de-Mars, one of walking in a huge sculpture garden. The tower has had lights installed in the structure, and on the hour in the evening the tower "sparkles"! There was an art installation at the other end of the Champs-de-Mars, directly in front of the Ecole Militaire (I am certain it was placed purposefully!), that used the word for peace in 32 languages as its message. The words were etched into glass panels so that you could view the landscape --and all of the people enjoying the park-- with the word for peace super-imposed upon it. Worth more than a golden ring.
ps. in the "labels for this post" are the descriptions of the pictures --unfortunately in the order this program has decided to post them -- I will work on this!
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